Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
