🔗 Share this article

When assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. But, tucked prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.